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Costa del sol

The Costa del Sol is the most developed and densely populated coastal strip in Andalucia, packed with resorts such as Fuengirola and Benalmádena, which have busy beaches and high-rise apartments. But each place still has its own unique appeal, such as the beautiful old quarter in Marbella and its swish restaurants, good for a bit of celebrity spotting if you´re lucky, an attractive long expanse of beach in Estepona and, if you´re after a lively nightlife, Torremolinos. If you want a rural quick-fix away from the Costa, head north of Marbella to Sierra Blanca, to the pretty villages of Ojén and Monda. Just north of Fuengirola are Mijas, Alhaurín el Grande and Coín.

The Costa del Sol also includes the less spoilt coastline east of Malaga, with the resorts of Rincón de la Victoria, Torre del Mar and Nerja, the latter offering a delightful promenade and a famous cave, the Cueva de Nerja. Just east of Nerja is a small but beautiful stretch of coastline, the most spectacular in Malaga province, which is protected. The Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo Natural Area are magnificent cliffs with secluded coves and sandy beaches covering part of the shore between Malaga province and La Herradura in Granada province. The drive along the coastal road gets increasingly dramatic as you head east from Malaga city, because the mountains of the Axarquía to the north meet the Mediterranean at this point, plunging directly into the sea in steep, rocky cliffs.

Alhaurin de la Torre

This easy access to the provincial capital is at the root of Alhaurín de la Torre's economic resurrection and cultural decline. It has been seized upon by many who work in Málaga but prefer not to live in the conurbation, and is rapidly expanding as a commuter town. There is little doubt that with the current explosion of building in full swing, it will soon outstrip its neighbour in size and population. We shall then have the ironic situation of Alhaurín el Grande being the smaller of the two.

As yet, the town is still set among large plantations of citrus and avocado, but as it continues to grow, and land becomes increasingly scarce and valuable, it may be that many of them will disappear.

Having said all this, there is nonetheless history to find if the visitor is diligent enough, though this is chiefly in the outlying suburbs such as La Alquería and Cortijo Molina. Perhaps aware that time is their enemy, the town council, the ayuntamiento, has enterprisingly compiled an exhaustive list of archæological sites, the Carta Arqueológica. This includes many sites which had previously been unrecorded, and which are not protected by preservation orders. It is obvious that these are the ones in most danger from the developers' bulldozers.

La Alquería was once a town of sorts in its own right, beginning as a 3rd Century BC Iberian hill fort and flourishing for a while under the Romans before petering out around 200AD. Nevertheless, there are still vestigial remnants of Roman masonry in the area, though many of them are now on private land and out of reach.

The biggest attraction for visitors to Alhaurín de la Torre is undoubtedly the gardens of El Retiro. Founded in the 17th Century by Fray Alonso de Santo Tomás, Bishop of Málaga, and originally use by him as his retirement home (hence, El Retiro) the gardens display an impressive variety of plant and wild life. Each section attempts to recreate the natural habitat of the creatures housed in it, from semi-desert to tropical swamp. The manor house at its centre has also been impressively restored.

A visit to El Retiro is enough to make even the most jaded visitor forget the frantic scramble beyond its walls, and forgive Alhaurín de la Torre most of its more earthly sins.